The Infantry Watch or military watch (also called a Field watch) is one of my favourite collection theme genre. Unlike dive watches, military watches, especially for the infantry corp is more versatile. With its much smaller dimensions, it can be used in many more instances such as formal or office wear. My ideal infantry watch must have a symmetrical dial with minimal disruption to the various markers. One major gripe I have with a lot of infantry watch models available today is the location of the date and day aperture(s). Most often, it replaces a luminous hour marker which disrupt the visual presentation in daylight as well as nighttime. As such, a simple analogue 3-hand infantry without any other complications is sufficient for me.
However, when I saw the SRPC85, I got interested despite it having a date aperture. The placement of the date aperture at 6 o'clock gives it a different feeling while making the dial more symmetrical.
I got the watch from AWG in Midvalley Megamall for RM820. The MSRP in Kuala Lumpur is RM1,165.
The Watch
A true infantry watch should be dark. As such, the SRPC85 is less qualified for the task than the SRPC89. Nevertheless, it has most of the DNA expected of an infantry watch and I like the design anyway.
The SRPC85 is made out of stainless steel and comes standard with a bracelet with the same material. Most surfaces are brushed but some, such as the inner lug walls and the side perimeter of the fixed bezel are polished. It measures 43 mm in width excluding the crown (with crown: 47 mm). Total length is 49 mm with a thickness of 13 mm. Lug width is 22 mm.
The chapter ring has a two-step design. The first stage is vertical with a brushed surface. Half way down, the chapter ring transition to a sloping wall and printed with a railroad track minute marker scale. Every 5th minute, a dot of Lumibrite luminous paint was added.
The dial itself is black with two distinct zones, the inner circle and the outer ring. Both zones are differentiated by the style of painting. The inner circle is painted plain black while the outer ring is painted in concentric circular strokes.
The inner circle has two rows of texts as well as the hour markers in Arabic numerals starting from 13 to 24 except for 16 which has been replaced by part of the date aperture. On close inspection, the numbers are more silvery yellow in colour instead of white. It has that vintage look. The brand is applied while the word "Automatic" in cursive font is painted in white.
The outer ring has the main hour markers in Arabic numerals. These are applied markers and framed with a very thin metal border. Starting from 1 to 12, only the number 6 has been cropped partially by the date window. To maintain the vintage look, yellowish white paint is used on the numbers.The date complication can be found in a rectangular framed aperture window located at 6 o'clock. The window is surrounded by a similar yellowish white paint. The date wheel uses black numbering on a white background.
The sword hands are painted black at the back-end while the front-end is painted with Lumibrite within a frame of polished steel. The seconds hand has an arrow shape painted black with Lumibrite paint for the triangle tip. The illuminated part is framed with polished steel just like the two hands.
The whole dial is protected by a flat Hardlex crystal. Instead of being flushed with the fixed bezel, the crystal extend about 0.5 mm above the bezel. Although the edge of the crystal is beveled, the crystal had a higher chance of impact damage compared to a flush fitting crystal. From a styling point of view, it looks so much cooler to see the edge of the crystal. However, from a practical point of view, it s not that well protected.
Also note the pass-through lug holes on the SRPC85. Definitely helps facilitate strap changes more easily.
The SRPC85 has a large crown located at the 3 o'clock position. Having a dust-proof crown design, it is large with 7 mm wide and 4 mm long height construction. Using a push-down system, you can manually wind the watch even when it is in the travelling position.
The SRPC85 has a screw-down display case-back. The window uses Hardlex crystal and you can see the Seiko Caliber 4R35 clearly through it. The 4R35 is a 23 jewel movement operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour. With a power reserve of 41 hours the caliber has the manufacturer's stated accuracy of +45 seconds to -35 seconds per day. In reality, the accuracy is much tighter.
The watch casing has a water rating of 100 meters. Although it is stated that you can swim with it, I would strongly advice you not to.
The watch is paired with a metal bracelet. Although the links appears solid, it is actually made out of thin strip of metal than has been folded over itself. In the photo above you just make out the fine seams in the centre of the links.
The links are attached together using a split pin. It is easy to resize.
The two halves of the bracelet join together to a clasp with a double push locking system. Stamped prominently with the brand, it does comes with two micro adjustment points for better fitting.
I do find the the illumination on this watch to be a bit disappointing. Despite the many ways to utilise the Lumibrite paint, the choice chosen for this watch is not what I would make. Instead, I would liberally paint Lumibrite on the Arabic numerals as well. This will make the dial looks bright even in the dark unlike what you get now (see above).
The Wearing Experience
The watch wears relatively well. I have a 7.25 inch circumference wrist and the 43 mm wide casing is just slightly on the high side. I would have preferred it to be below 42 mm for a good fit. As you can see in the photos below, it is quite at ease with formal wear.
As a field watch, I expected to see one of the models in the series to have at least a nylon or canvas strap. Instead, Seiko only provide a couple of sports leather straps as option. Also, for the bracelet model, the choice of a simple double-push safety lock for the clasp instead of the more commonly used double-push safety with flip lock is questionable. The current choice is more appropriate for a dress watch instead of a field watch.
Conclusion
A number of telltale signs seem to suggest to me that this watch was design more towards fashion instead of being practical. Fact one; it is not under the Prospex nor the Seiko 5 Sports lines. Fact two; the lack of a field strap made out of nylon or canvas as an option. Fact three; poor use of the Lumibrite paint. Fact four; the Hardlex crystal is not as well protected.
After taking all these facts into account, I would not recommend any one of you to get this watch if your purpose in more than just a fashion statement. Although it is capable to withstand some level of knocking around, there are other models that are more capable and designed specifically for active use unlike the SRPC85.
The Series
There are three members in this series. The SRPC85, SRPC87 and SRPC89 as tabulated below. The series have a combination of black or cream dial; polished, brushed or PVD surface; bracelet or leather straps.
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Specifications
Material: Stainless Steel
Glass: Hardlex
Strap: Bracelet
Dial: Black
Movement: Automatic
Complications: Analog hands & date
Caliber: 4R35
Jewels: 23
Water Resist: 100 m
Case Diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 13 mm
Lugs: 22 mm
Lug-to-Lug: 49 mm
Crown: 7 mm wide; 4 mm long
Photo Gallery
