Showing posts with label Display Back. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Display Back. Show all posts

Tuesday

Seiko Criteria Automatic SRPC73K1 "Submersible" (similar to SRPC69K1, SRPC71K1, SRPC75K1 & SRPC77K1) - Stylish yet basic, A Review (with Videos)

The Seiko Criteria line has never caught my attention until now. The range has traditionally been viewed as having a flashy yet sporty styling. Powered by quartz technology (battery and solar), the line's most common complication is the chronograph function.

For 2018, Seiko decided to add a simpler design to Criteria's repertoire. Powered with a basic automatic movement, the three handed timepieces come only with day and date complications as well as a display case-back. Importantly, the glass is sapphire crystal for the extra touch of quality.

When I saw it for the first time, I did a quick search on the internet about this particular line but nothing came up. The only information I was able to get is the reference number of the 5 timepieces that makes up this particular series under the Criteria line. Out of the five, I find the SRPC73K1 to be the most catching of the lot and I immediately took possession of one.



The MSRP in Kuala Lumpur was RM1,310.00 but I was able to get it for RM950.00. I bought it from Style Watch in Mid Valley, Megamall.

The stainless steel casing on the SRPC73K1 has a two-stage design that starts round shape at the upper half and morphed to a tonneau cushion shape for the bottom half. Seldom seen now but this is one of the more common design found in vintage timepieces. I love this design.


The Watch

The SRPC73K1 is a fashionable sports watch. You either love the styling or hate it immensely. When it comes to sports watches, the Seiko lines that come to mind are the Prospex as well as the Seiko 5 Sports. Seldom would one equate the Criteria line for a sports watch. To be honest, I have yet to make a conclusive opinion on this watch. The only reason I got it was because this would be the first Criteria in the collection and the design does call to me somewhat. More about this later.



By using a caliper, I got the following dimensions. The watch has a diameter of 44.0 mm if we exclude the crown (Seiko officially states it as 43 mm). With the crown included, the diameter extends further by 3.5 mm to 47.5 mm. The height is 13.5 mm. The lugs has a width of 22.0 mm while the lug-to-lug is 51.5 mm. The standard strap provided tapers from 22.0 mm at the lugs to 20.0 mm at the buckle.



The dial design is very stylish. The combination of the colour blue as well as a sun-burst texture makes the dial simmer in any lighting conditions. With white as the other contrasting colour on the dial, despite the shine, it is very easy to refer to the time.

The chapter ring has two stages. From the edge of the crystal, it is polished metal with a near vertical angle. It than transition to a gradual slope painted in blue and marked with a minute scale. The minute scale has a combination of line markers and Arabic numerals painted in white.

The dial surface is even more intricate with three separate levels. The lowest or bottom level is at the center and this where the main texts are located. There are also thin hour markers in white apart from a larger cross that bisects the surface in a North-South and East-West alignment. The Seiko brand is applied on the dial at the upper quadrant while the rest of the texts consisting of the words "AUTOMATIC", 24 JEWELS" and "100M" are painted white on the lower quadrant. It is also interesting to note that the lowest level of dial is not circular. Due to the way the second lowest level was constructed which overlay a portion of the lowest level along the date and day aperture, the area looks like 'Pacman' or a spanner head. Visually, the blue paint used on the lowest level is darker compared to the next level.

The second lowest or middle level is ring-shaped of approximately 4.5 mm wide with the exception where the day & date aperture is situated. At this unique position, it extends like a rectangle platform all the way to the center of the dial. Visually, the blue paint used on this level is lighter than the lowest level as well as the highest level. On this particular level, the hour scale is made out of Arabic numerals as well as a large applied triangle marker framed with a center line at 12 o'clock. This particular marker is painted with Seiko's Lumibrite. At this position as well, the middle level cuts into the top level following the shape of the triangle peak right up to the chapter ring wall. It is also worth noting that the Seiko designers uses white dashes to frame the day & date aperture. At first I cannot see the rationale behind the white dashes. After a while I realised the justification of doing so. If there is a solid white frame around the aperture, it will overwhelm the symmetry of the dial. Anyway, if given the chance, I will elect not to put any framing around the aperture. The number and letters on the date is more than sufficient to provide a balance to the missing hour numeral at 3 o'clock. 

http://westernwatch.blogspot.com/2013/11/aristo-flieger-automatic-3h114-pilot.htmlThe highest or top level is an even thinner ring, just 3.0 mm wide. On this level, Seiko designers added applied square-shaped hour markers with Lumibrite paint.Visually, the blue on this level appears to be the same tone as the lowest level. At 12 o'clock, where the ring breaks, you will find two painted white dots. Coupled with the applied triangle, it has the same design philosophy of German Flieger watches (see picture of my Aristo Flieger on the right). 

The hours and minutes hands on the watch is semi-skeletonised and has a polished frame. The design follows that of a Roman short sword. The non-skeletonised part is painted with Lumibrite. I have not seen such designs in Seiko's other watches before so this must be new. Meanwhile, the seconds hand is thin and polished at the front section and painted black at the back section with a ball painted with Lumibrite at the end.

The day and date complication is painted white with a black background. For the day complication, you have the option of English or Roman numerals.



Just looking at the coin edge of the bezel, it would not be wrong to expect the watch comes with a timing bezel. In reality, the bezel is in fact fixed in place. The fixed bezel is marked with hours markers in Arabic numerals starting from '13' to '24'. The numbers are stamped into the metal and painted black. After looking at the watch for some time, it suddenly dawned on me where I have seen something similar before - the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Titanio or PAM01305 by Panerai. You can see that there is a strong resemblance in case design, the style of bezel and the main hands.


SRPC73K1
PAM01305


The push-in crown is located at the contemporary 3 o'clock position. Nothing spectacular about the crown. The crown is sterile without any stamping or artwork.

Like many of Seiko watches, the SRPC73K1 uses short and curved lugs to minimise wrist overhang especially for those with smaller wrists. As you can see in the photo below, the lugs have drill-through lug holes to facilitate easier strap changes.



The screw-down display case-back in protected by Hardlex crystal and allows one to see the 4R36A movement. Around the outer edges of the Hardlex crystal, basic information about the watch can be found. Anyway, I am actually surprised that Seiko allowed a none decorated movement to go with this watch. Criteria, as a fashion line should have something visually stunning to show (similar to a Presage line). At least get the rotor painted in either black or blue. If that is difficult, perhaps the clear Hardlex could be tinted with a similar colour as the dial. In the case of the SRPC73K1, a shade of blue perhaps.



The watch has been water rated to 100 meters. It also has a magnetic resistance rating of 4,800 A/m (60 gauss).

The 4R36A is the current automatic caliber workhorse of Seiko. Operating at 21,600 BPH or 3 Hertzs, the movement uses 24 jewels with seconds hand stop capability. It can be hand-wound and it has a power reserve of approximately 41 hours with an error rate of +45 seconds and -35 seconds per day. Below is a video of the movement of the seconds hand.



The watch is paired with a hybrid blue nylon and leather strap. The upper surface is nylon with a contrasting white stitching on the perimeter. The bottom surface is leather. A leather strip has also been put over the buckle holes for reinforcement. It comes with two strap guides and the metal buckle is stamped with the brand. The strap is stiffer than either a pure nylon strap or pure leather strap yet comfortable.



Some parts of the watch have been painted with the luminous Lumibrite paint. Below is a photo of the watch after getting a good dose of black light. As you can see from the photo, the watch has more than adequately illumination for nighttime use.




The Wearing Experience

I have a 7.25 inch circumference wrist and the SRPC73K1 fills the wrist to the brim. To those of you that prefer big watches, this is one good option. The thick hybrid nylon & leather strap does add to the bulk of the watch. It is also the part of the watch that snags the most especially at shirt cuffs. Having worn it in an office environment, it is not as smooth to wear compared to other sports watches from Seiko.



In a more relaxed atmosphere, the SRPC73K1is fun to wear. Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.




Conclusion

As a sports timepiece, the SRPC73K1 does have a number of weakness. 

The first is the dial clutter. As a dress watch, the multiple levels on the dial is very intriguing and a good conversation starter. There are so many interesting aspects on the dial to be discovered. However, you don't want too many things going on the dial as it distracts the user from referring to the time quickly while engaged in a physical activity or while in an active environment. 

The second is the 'phony' timing bezel. The SRPC73K1 only has time, day and date functionality. I would have preferred the bezel to move like a diver watch as it will add another two important functions - timing as well as dual timezone reference. To me, this watch feels like a 'replica' with a non-functioning complication.

The third and final issue is the non-decorated movement. For the Criteria range, this should not be acceptable. At least dress up the rotor or even the display case-back to give that premium feel to the watch and justify it having the Criteria badge.  

Nevertheless, after having said all those thing, I still need to relate the watch to the most important variable - price. For the price point, this watch is not bad at all. It has the general shape that I like and it took some cues from more expensive sports watches to make it feel more exciting.

Since no one has yet provide a fitting nickname for this series, I hereby proclaim the moniker "Submersible" for the SRPC73K1 and all its siblings. This is to reflect its similarity to Panerai's Luminor Submersible 1950 series.




The Series

There are five example in the Criteria Automatic series. Only one is a limited edition piece and only one comes standard with bracelet.

The standard run examples are (L-R) with the reference number SRPC69K1, SRPC71K1, SRPC73K1 and SRPC75K1.



The SRPC69K1 has a black PVD plus bracelet. The SRPC71K1 comes with a leather strap while the rest comes with a hybrid canvas and leather strap in various colours. Meanwhile, the SRPC77K1 (bottom) is a limited edition timepiece. At the time of writing, I have not found information about the number of units being produced for this particular reference.






The MSRP in Malaysia are as follows:
  • SRPC69K1: RM1,605.00
  • SRPC71K1: RM1,290.00
  • SRPC73K1: RM1,390.00
  • SRPC75K1: RM1,440.00
  • SRPC77K1: RM1,605.00

Specifications

Case Material - Stainless Steel
Glass - Sapphire Crystal (front); Hardlex (back)
Band Material - Hybrid Nylon & Leather
Clasp - Signed Buckle
Case Diameter - 44.0 mm (43 mm as stated by Seiko)
Lug Size - 22.0mm
Lug to Lug -  51.5 mm
Height  -  13.5 mm
Movement - Seiko Automatic Caliber 4R36A
Complications - Day & Date
Water Resistant - 100 Meters



Photo Gallery




READ MORE - Seiko Criteria Automatic SRPC73K1 "Submersible" (similar to SRPC69K1, SRPC71K1, SRPC75K1 & SRPC77K1) - Stylish yet basic, A Review (with Videos)

Monday

Seiko Presage Automatic "Baby GS Snowflake 2" Limited Edition International Ref. SJE073 or JDM Ref. SARA015, The Best Reinterpretation of an Icon - A Review (plus Video)

When the Seiko Presage Automatic "Baby GS Snowflake 2" Limited Edition Ref. SJE073 (International reference)/SARA015 (JDM reference) was showcased at Baselworld 2018, I was hooked. It immediately became another 'grail' watch for me. Why a 'grail' watch you might ask? The likelihood of me snaring one of the only 1,881 examples made is slim considering how beautiful it is.

In many reviews, the SJE073/SARA015 has been given the nickname "Baby GS Snowflake". This nickname was already given to the SARX055 last year. It is not fair to strip it from the incumbent just because this looks closer to the GS Snowflake. I prefer to give the nickname "Baby GS Snowflake 2" to the SJE073/SARA015. I will provide a justification on this later.

This new Presage introduced an all new Seiko caliber, the 6L35. The new caliber is thinner and more accurate compared to the commonly used base caliber for Presage, the 6R15. The dimensions of the watch also took advantage of the thinner movement to make for a much thinner watch casing.

The photos of the watch taken at Baselworld 2018 and via the press kit provided by Seiko wetted my appetite even more. When Gnomon Watches sent me a product update newsletter with the SJE073/SARA015 available at the store, I jumped at the opportunity to get one.

The MSRP in Japan is listed at YEN240,000 (before taxes). Gnomon Watches listed it at USD2,100 which is equivalent to RM8,994.75 at the point of purchase. The purchasing experience is smooth as silk and the watch was on my desk in 48 hours.



The Watch

Seiko was founded in 1881. To commemorate the auspicious year, the production of the SJE073/SARA015 was limited to just 1,881 examples. The unit I got was designated the SJE073 i.e. the international reference. I was allocated the number 1093 out of 1,881 examples. I am not sure if the 1,881 examples are unique to SJE073 and SARA015 separately or does it mean only 1,881 examples in total. If anyone can confirm, appreciate it if you could put a note in the comment section below.



The SJE073 is made in Japan and has a classic design to it. Made out of stainless steel, the watch has a dial surface reminiscent of the Grand Seiko "Snowflake". Coupled with the high level of finishing to the surfaces, its resemblance in uncanny. Due to this, I have dubbed it the Baby GS Snowflake 2 instead of just simply Baby GS Snowflake by many reviewers. Last year, the Seiko Presage SARX055 Titanium was dubbed the Baby GS Snowflake. Although some would argue that the SJE073 is the 'true' Baby GS Snowflake, I disagree (more about this later). 

Anyway,  I like white dial watches from Seiko and the SJE073 fits in nicely with what I have collected thus far.



The case of the SJE073 is a piece of art. The 40.7 mm case is finished in multiple finishing, polished on the faceted side and fine satin brushed on the top of the lugs. What makes it unique compared to the previous Presages is that it has a whole new style of construction. The case has been designed as a front loader where the movement is inserted from the front of the case instead of through the case-back even though a screw-down case-back is provided with the watch. This change allows the thinness of the case to be amplified significantly by angling the sides inwards. The watch casing now becomes more slender and attractive. The height of the watch due to the new case construction as well as the new movement is just 9.8 mm.



The SJE073 is traditional in design with the placement of the crown, markers and date aperture like any other contemporary dress watches. What makes it awesome is the texture used on the dial. It takes its cue from the famous Grand Seiko “Snowflake” (I got the SBGA011. Read the review here). The randomness of the “Snowflake” texture reflects light amazingly.

The watch has a two-stage chapter ring. The first is a vertical wall of polished stainless steel halfway down. From that point, the chapter ring morphed to an angled white surface with minute and sub-minute line markers in black.

The dial surface has a coarse handmade high-end parchment paper quality to it. On it, the applied hour markers with multiple faceted surfaces and polished mirror-like are adorned. The Seiko brand is also applied in similar fashion like the hour markers. Apart from the brand, the words "PRESAGE" and "AUTOMATIC" can be clearly seen at the bottom half of the dial, printed in blue.



The SJE073 comes with a date complication located in an aperture at 3 o'clock. The aperture is surrounded by an applied polished steel frame which bites into half of the 3 o'clock hour marker. Meanwhile, at the extreme bottom of the dial surface are the texts "JAPAN 6L35-" and "00A0 R 2" in a very small font size. For the first set of texts it signifies that the watch is made in Japan and uses the 6L35 movement while the second set of texts are manufacturing codes only known by the manufacturer.

The dauphine hours and minutes hands are brilliantly polished and faceted. When in combination with the flamed blued seconds hand, it all adds a level of sophistication found generally in high-end watches.

The dial is capped with a flat sapphire crystal treated with a super-clear coating. When added together with the silvery 'white snowflake' texture, the dial glows radiantly in natural light with all the markers and hands appears distinct and elegant at the same time.



Due to the unique case design, the bezel has two parts to it. Since this construction requires the bezel be removed for servicing, the bezel is a screw-down. However, to preserve the perfect lines of the case, a secondary bezel is used to cap it. Meanwhile, the crown is signed prominently with a "S" on the top surface. The crown uses a push-in, pull-out system to access the gears for time and date adjustments.



The lugs are 20 mm wide and attached to a new stainless steel bracelet where each individual links on the bracelet is made up of five sections. Using a combination of polishing techniques, the three main parts are satin brushed while the connecting links are polished to a mirror-like surface. Apart from the polishing, the parts are also shaped differently. The two outer parts are oval while the three center parts are faceted to to showcase Seiko's artistic and manufacturing capabilities. Furthermore, it gives the bracelet an opulence that exceeds its actual price range.



The clasp has a push-button lock with the brand sandblasted on the surface. I truly appreciate the machined bridge between the two halves of the bracelet as it shows quality. Instead of having micro-adjustment points on the clasp, Seiko provides four half-links instead. Meanwhile, the end-links are solid.



The bracelet can support a wrist with a circumference of 200 mm. It tapers from 20 mm at the lugs to 18 mm at the clasp. Both the bracelet as well as the watch casing are treated with a special super hard coating called DiaShield, Seiko's proprietary compound used to minimise scratches of metal surfaces from everyday wear.

The display screw-down case-back is protected by Sapphire crystal. Information about the watch as well as a special "LIMITED EDITION" notification with the serial number can be found here.



Through the display opening, you can see the latest movement introduced by Seiko, the 6L35. The new caliber is thinner and more accurate compared to Seiko's standard caliber, the 6R series which up till now has been the common movement used in the high-end Presage line (excluding the chronograph models). The new movement is 1.3 mm slimmer than the 6R15 at 3.7 mm. Its accuracy has improved to between +15 seconds and -10 seconds per day compared to between +25 seconds and -15 seconds per day of the 6R15.

The 6L35, operating at 28,800 BPH or 4 Hertzs is an automatic movement with a date complication. It has 26 jewels with a power reserve of 45 hours through a Spron 510 mainspring. Like most modern Seiko movement, it has a seconds hand stopping mechanism when adjusting the time as well as hand winding capabilities.

Since the SJE073 is the first Seiko watch to introduce the 6L35, by making it a limited edition as well, Seiko has created a 'scarcity' great for collectors.

The use of stainless steel means this watch has some weight to it. Unlike the GS Snowflake (SBGA011) and the Baby GS Snowflake (SARX055), both of which are made out of titanium, the SJE073 weighs in a whopping 133 gm (relatively speaking). Personally, I prefer the weight as it reminds me there is something on the wrist.


Comparing The Snowflakes


Model
SJE073
Nickname
Snowflake
Baby GS Snowflake
Baby GS Snowflake 2
Material
Titanium
Titanium
Stainless steel
Dimensions
Measuring 41.0 mm wide, the watch has a lug width of 20.0 mm and a lug-to-lug length of 48.0 mm. Thickness is 12.5 mm. The overall weight (with all links included) is 100 gm.
Measuring 40.8 mm wide, the watch has a lug width of 20.0 mm and a lug-to-lug length of 45.0 mm. Thickness is 11.0 mm. The overall weight (with all links included) is 106 gm.
Measuring 40.7 mm wide, the watch has a lug width of 20.0 mm and a lug-to-lug length of 43.5 mm. Thickness is 9.8 mm. The overall weight (with all links included) is 133 gm.
Movement
9R65
6R15
6L35
MSRP/Price (RM)
22,048/17,600
5,455/4,624
9,495/8,995

Above is some primary specifications of the three "Snowflakes" for reference. The SJE073 is the smallest of the three in terms of dimensions but the heaviest due to the use of stainless steel. It would also appear that either the 6L35 is an expensive movement or Seiko adds a lot of premium for limited edition timepieces.



Above are pictures of the SJE073 with the other "Snowflakes". In the photo on the left is the (L-R) SBGA011 and the SJE073 while the photo on the right is the (L-R) SARX055 and the SJE073. Although I could not get the same lighting in the two photos, as the reference sample SJE073 is present in both photos, you will be able to infer that the dial on the SJE073 is more pronounced as a 'snowflake' compared to the SARX055.


Interesting Backstories

I highlighted earlier in the review that Seiko announced the introduction for the all new 6L35 movement in the SJE073. However, an interesting blog posting by musingsofawatchaddict (see the blog posting here) speculate that the 6L35 is not new but a reworked 4L25 movement introduced back in 2007. This series only lasted until 2013 with the final iteration, the 4L75 movement.

The 4L25 and 4L75 movements operates at 28,800 bph and had a power reserve of 42 hours and 50 hours, respectively. However both 4L movements only had 25 jewels. When launched, they were   Seiko’s slimmest automatic movements at 3.6 mm thick and measured 25.6 mm across.

Seiko also utilise several Swiss designs in the movement architecture such as the reverser wheel design rather than Seiko’s magic lever to wind the mainspring, and also the Incabloc anti-shock suystem rather than its own Diafix anti-shock system.

The 4L25 movement was introduced in 2007 in the SARA 001/3/7/9/11/13 models. At that time, the models were incredibly expensive at YEN189,000 and were discontinued in 2008 due to the lack of demand. Below is a photo of the SARA001 (white) and SARA003 (black).



Meanwhile, the 4L75 movements were introduced by Seiko under the Credor lineage under the GCBW 993/5/7/9 and sold for JPY 260,000 between 2007 and 2013.



From these key observations, the blogger musingsofawatchaddict highlighted the following reasons behind the speculation that the 6L35 is in fact an iteration of an old movement.

  1. The JDM reference number of the new Presage is SARA015. The previous SARA series that was discontinued in 2008 ended with the model number SARA013. Hence it made sense for the new model using the same movement to be numbered in order;
  2. Dimensions of the 4L and the new 6L match in terms of thickness, diameter, power reserve and beat rates;
  3. The 6L35 appears to be a mix of the 4L25 and 4L75. It has the power reserve of the 4L25 (45 hours), but the accuracy of the 4L75 (+15/-10 seconds). This helps answer the high pricing of this Presage which really is more in line with the pricing of the Credors powered previously by the 4L75.
There are more justifications provided in that blog posting and I do encourage you to go there and see the evidence shown.

Depending your own standards of what can be considered new or otherwise, it would be hard to prove that Seiko was not forward with the whole truth. What we know is that the new movement has an extra jewel - doesn't this at least justify the 'newness'?


The Wearing Experience

The thinness of the SJE073 injects a different feeling to wearing it when compared to the other two "Snowflake" siblings. This is the one singular most important factor that makes me vouch for the SJE073 as the best overall "Snowflake". It makes for a great all-rounder dress watch.




I have no issues to bring up about the watch apart from the usual price and availability issues. Overall, an excellent reinterpretation of an existing icon using a new, smaller and more accurate movement. 

Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.





Specifications

Maker: Seiko Japan
Movement: Caliber 6L35
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Thickness: 3.7 mm
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Winding: Automatic and manual with hacking capability
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 BPH)
Jewels: 26
Accuracy: +15/-10 sec per day

Dial: Silverish white "snowflake" with faceted applied indexes
Luminous: NA
Date: 3 o'clock
Case: Stainless steel (super hard coating; DiaShield)
Crown: Push-in and signed
Lug: 20 mm

Crystal: Sapphire front with Super-clear coating. Sapphire display back.
Strap: Stainless steel
Water Resistance: 100 m
Dimensions: 40.7 mm in diameter (w/o crown), 43.5 mm in diameter (w. crown), 46.3 mm lug to lug, 9.8 mm thick
Bracelet Length: 200 mm
Bracelet Width: 20.0 mm to 18.0 mm 
Weight: 133 gm
Circulation: 1,881 examples
Serial: 1093/1881
MSRP: YEN240,000


Instruction Manual




Photo Gallery 







READ MORE - Seiko Presage Automatic "Baby GS Snowflake 2" Limited Edition International Ref. SJE073 or JDM Ref. SARA015, The Best Reinterpretation of an Icon - A Review (plus Video)