Showing posts with label Date. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Date. Show all posts

Sunday

Seiko Recraft Series Automatic Green Watch SNKP27 (Similar to SNKP23, SNKP25) - Welcome Home Beautiful, A Review (plus Video)

An interesting series coming out of Seiko's factories is the "Recraft" line. These are modern watches with vintage design cues at an affordable price point. Akin to a Seiko 5 series but not necessarily so. I believe Seiko found that the current level of quality required of a Seiko 5 with the 4R winding and hacking movement will require them to price it to a level that would not make Seiko 5s the 'cheap value-for-money' watches it used to be.

To solve the affordability issue, Seiko created the 'Recraft' line that firmly puts the brand in the hands of the masses. I have collected a number of watches under this more affordable line and they are truly value-for-money works of art.

The latest into the collection is the SNKP27. This is a square shaped watch which is seldom seen in the realm of Seiko. It has a MSRP of USD275. Made out of stainless steel, it is 40 mm horizontally and 46 mm vertically. It also has a thickness of 12 mm thick. Lug width is 22 mm. The watch is paired with a leather strap with a signed buckle.

Powered by Seiko legendary 7S26 caliber workhorse, it creates a package that is hard to beat when it comes to capabilities at such a low price point.


The Series

The SNKP27 (right) is part of a trio of rectangle type watches launched recently by Seiko. The other members of the trio is the SNKP23 (left) and SNKP25 (middle).



Unfortunately, Seiko has decided not to import this series to Malaysia (at the time this review was written). I had to get it halfway around the world via Amazon.

A few years ago, if given the option, I would prefer to get the SNKP23 as it comes with the standard bracelet. However, my interest has changed and strap watches looks more dashing to me. Moreover, the SNKP27 comes in my favorite color, green.

This is a handsome watch. The rectangle shape of the watch casing has that vintage look that is seldom found in modern watch designs. Although the sharp angles between the side wall and the bezel as well as the side wall and the bottom surface are magnets for dents, it looks cool nonetheless.

The Dial

The dial is designed to have two distinct levels. The lower level is circular while the upper level follows the rectangular shape of the watch casing. Both levels are predominantly in sunburst dark green.



There are only three lines of text on the dial, all located on the lower level. The brand “SEIKO” is gold plated whereas the other two are in white. There are also hour markers in the form of white dots on this level. Meanwhile, the day and date aperture is heavily framed and is gold plated. The date and day wheels are based on a white background. The day function has two language options; English or Spanish.

The upper level has thin black ring at the inner edge and minute markers in the shape of white lines are located in this area. Beyond this area, the minute markers transitioned to bright green lines and extend right to the other edge of the dial. Gold plated rectangle plates are use as hour markers on this level. Apart for the 3 o’clock (due to the day and date aperture) and 12 o’clock (as a starting reference) hour markers, all the rest are similar in design. Do note the intermittent border wall in very dark green at the outer edge of the dial.

The minutes and hours hands are rectangle and gold plated. Their center sections are painted with Seiko luminous paint; LumiBrite. Meanwhile the seconds hands is pin-like and also gold plated.

The Casing

As highlighted earlier, this rectangle shaped watch is made out of stainless steel with flat surfaces and angled corners. A mixture of polished and brushed surfaces gives a nice texture combination that reinforces its ‘vintage’ design. With dimensions of 40 mm horizontal, 46 mm vertical and 12 mm tall, this ‘Recraft’ is smaller than other watches under this vintage-style series.



The short hooded lugs with width of 22 mm help reduce the overall size even further. The watch sits firmly on my wrist without any ‘overhang’ of the lugs. Those with thinner wrist will find this design very accommodating.



The dial is protected by Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex crystal. It has a flat surface with beveled edges and the surface extends about 0.5 mm above the bezel. This gives another interesting visual cue but also exposes the crystal to potential side impact.

The crown is simple tubular shaped crown approximately 6 mm wide located at the 3 o’clock position. It has fine groves on the barrel surface while the top has a polished surface. Using a push-in system, it has three positions, first is lock, second adjusts the day and date, and third adjusts the time.



The watch comes with a screw-down display case-back also made out of Hardlex crystal. On it you will find the serial number of the watch as well additional information such as the make as well as the water resistant limit. This watch is rated for 5 ATM or 50 meters. I am proud to note that the watch movement is made in Malaysia. The same is also stamped on the rotor of the movement.

The Movement

The movement is the classic 7S26C workhorse by Seiko. It has 21 jewels with a power reserve of approximately 40+ hours. It is a non-winding and non-hacking movement with day and date complications. Although not as accurate as more modern designs, it is dependable and can take a lot of abuse. More importantly, it is cheap to make and that helps keep prices low. I am rather proud to note that the movement is made in Malaysia!

The Strap

The strap attached to the watch is stressed double-layered brown calf leather with border stitching. It comes with a signed buckle. It tapers from 22 mm at the lugs to 19 mm at the buckle. Unlike typical leather straps, the tail is squared off instead of shaped to a pointed tip.



End-to-end, the strap extends to 24 cm. It is capable of securing the watch to a wrist with a maximum circumference of 21 cm or 8.3 inches.

I find the strap comfortable and the thickness gives the impression of able to last for a long time.

The Reveal

The box is new design. This is the first time I’ve seen it. It comes in two sections.



The first section is an outer sleeve made out of white cardboard with a window cutout at the top. The second section is the main watch-box made out of hard cardboard. The top piece is in white with the brand printed in silver. This is the part that one can view via the cutout in the outer sleeve. The bottom part of the box is in black and it sticks out at the bottom as the top part of the box does not go all the way down.



Inside the box is a very wide pillow with the logo printed at the corner and where the watch sits. Beneath it is the manual with the typical guarantee card. In addition, there is another piece of document which you can fill and upload digitally for the guarantee coverage. I believe this is an option from SEIKO USA. Otherwise, you will have to use the typical guarantee card.

The Wearing Experience

The watch sits firmly on the wrist. The short hooded lugs make this watch very wearable even for those with thinner wrists. The double layered brown leather strap pairs nicely with the casing.

Visually, the dual tiered dial surface gives the perception of depth which ties in with long sloping sides of the casing. My only comment is that instead of a circular second tier, it would be more appropriate for it to be shaped similar to the watch casing i.e. rectangular as well.

Below are some photos as well as a video of the watch on my wrist.






Conclusion

The SNKP27 is a beautiful watch. Hopefully, someone in Seiko does see the light and allow this series to be imported into Malaysia.

On another note, when I got the watch from Amazon, I tried starting the watch but the seconds hand didn’t budge. I tried all the suggested solutions in the manual. I was so disappointed that I may have to send it back to Amazon. I even completed the ‘return parcel’ request with Amazon. I tried one final trick. I turned the hours hand two full cycles and surprisingly, the watch started to work! I suspect that the springs did not have a shred of kinetic energy in them (since it was new) and only after giving it the initial boost that it started to work, phew!




Photo Gallery







READ MORE - Seiko Recraft Series Automatic Green Watch SNKP27 (Similar to SNKP23, SNKP25) - Welcome Home Beautiful, A Review (plus Video)

Tuesday

Seiko Criteria Automatic SRPC73K1 "Submersible" (similar to SRPC69K1, SRPC71K1, SRPC75K1 & SRPC77K1) - Stylish yet basic, A Review (with Videos)

The Seiko Criteria line has never caught my attention until now. The range has traditionally been viewed as having a flashy yet sporty styling. Powered by quartz technology (battery and solar), the line's most common complication is the chronograph function.

For 2018, Seiko decided to add a simpler design to Criteria's repertoire. Powered with a basic automatic movement, the three handed timepieces come only with day and date complications as well as a display case-back. Importantly, the glass is sapphire crystal for the extra touch of quality.

When I saw it for the first time, I did a quick search on the internet about this particular line but nothing came up. The only information I was able to get is the reference number of the 5 timepieces that makes up this particular series under the Criteria line. Out of the five, I find the SRPC73K1 to be the most catching of the lot and I immediately took possession of one.



The MSRP in Kuala Lumpur was RM1,310.00 but I was able to get it for RM950.00. I bought it from Style Watch in Mid Valley, Megamall.

The stainless steel casing on the SRPC73K1 has a two-stage design that starts round shape at the upper half and morphed to a tonneau cushion shape for the bottom half. Seldom seen now but this is one of the more common design found in vintage timepieces. I love this design.


The Watch

The SRPC73K1 is a fashionable sports watch. You either love the styling or hate it immensely. When it comes to sports watches, the Seiko lines that come to mind are the Prospex as well as the Seiko 5 Sports. Seldom would one equate the Criteria line for a sports watch. To be honest, I have yet to make a conclusive opinion on this watch. The only reason I got it was because this would be the first Criteria in the collection and the design does call to me somewhat. More about this later.



By using a caliper, I got the following dimensions. The watch has a diameter of 44.0 mm if we exclude the crown (Seiko officially states it as 43 mm). With the crown included, the diameter extends further by 3.5 mm to 47.5 mm. The height is 13.5 mm. The lugs has a width of 22.0 mm while the lug-to-lug is 51.5 mm. The standard strap provided tapers from 22.0 mm at the lugs to 20.0 mm at the buckle.



The dial design is very stylish. The combination of the colour blue as well as a sun-burst texture makes the dial simmer in any lighting conditions. With white as the other contrasting colour on the dial, despite the shine, it is very easy to refer to the time.

The chapter ring has two stages. From the edge of the crystal, it is polished metal with a near vertical angle. It than transition to a gradual slope painted in blue and marked with a minute scale. The minute scale has a combination of line markers and Arabic numerals painted in white.

The dial surface is even more intricate with three separate levels. The lowest or bottom level is at the center and this where the main texts are located. There are also thin hour markers in white apart from a larger cross that bisects the surface in a North-South and East-West alignment. The Seiko brand is applied on the dial at the upper quadrant while the rest of the texts consisting of the words "AUTOMATIC", 24 JEWELS" and "100M" are painted white on the lower quadrant. It is also interesting to note that the lowest level of dial is not circular. Due to the way the second lowest level was constructed which overlay a portion of the lowest level along the date and day aperture, the area looks like 'Pacman' or a spanner head. Visually, the blue paint used on the lowest level is darker compared to the next level.

The second lowest or middle level is ring-shaped of approximately 4.5 mm wide with the exception where the day & date aperture is situated. At this unique position, it extends like a rectangle platform all the way to the center of the dial. Visually, the blue paint used on this level is lighter than the lowest level as well as the highest level. On this particular level, the hour scale is made out of Arabic numerals as well as a large applied triangle marker framed with a center line at 12 o'clock. This particular marker is painted with Seiko's Lumibrite. At this position as well, the middle level cuts into the top level following the shape of the triangle peak right up to the chapter ring wall. It is also worth noting that the Seiko designers uses white dashes to frame the day & date aperture. At first I cannot see the rationale behind the white dashes. After a while I realised the justification of doing so. If there is a solid white frame around the aperture, it will overwhelm the symmetry of the dial. Anyway, if given the chance, I will elect not to put any framing around the aperture. The number and letters on the date is more than sufficient to provide a balance to the missing hour numeral at 3 o'clock. 

http://westernwatch.blogspot.com/2013/11/aristo-flieger-automatic-3h114-pilot.htmlThe highest or top level is an even thinner ring, just 3.0 mm wide. On this level, Seiko designers added applied square-shaped hour markers with Lumibrite paint.Visually, the blue on this level appears to be the same tone as the lowest level. At 12 o'clock, where the ring breaks, you will find two painted white dots. Coupled with the applied triangle, it has the same design philosophy of German Flieger watches (see picture of my Aristo Flieger on the right). 

The hours and minutes hands on the watch is semi-skeletonised and has a polished frame. The design follows that of a Roman short sword. The non-skeletonised part is painted with Lumibrite. I have not seen such designs in Seiko's other watches before so this must be new. Meanwhile, the seconds hand is thin and polished at the front section and painted black at the back section with a ball painted with Lumibrite at the end.

The day and date complication is painted white with a black background. For the day complication, you have the option of English or Roman numerals.



Just looking at the coin edge of the bezel, it would not be wrong to expect the watch comes with a timing bezel. In reality, the bezel is in fact fixed in place. The fixed bezel is marked with hours markers in Arabic numerals starting from '13' to '24'. The numbers are stamped into the metal and painted black. After looking at the watch for some time, it suddenly dawned on me where I have seen something similar before - the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Titanio or PAM01305 by Panerai. You can see that there is a strong resemblance in case design, the style of bezel and the main hands.


SRPC73K1
PAM01305


The push-in crown is located at the contemporary 3 o'clock position. Nothing spectacular about the crown. The crown is sterile without any stamping or artwork.

Like many of Seiko watches, the SRPC73K1 uses short and curved lugs to minimise wrist overhang especially for those with smaller wrists. As you can see in the photo below, the lugs have drill-through lug holes to facilitate easier strap changes.



The screw-down display case-back in protected by Hardlex crystal and allows one to see the 4R36A movement. Around the outer edges of the Hardlex crystal, basic information about the watch can be found. Anyway, I am actually surprised that Seiko allowed a none decorated movement to go with this watch. Criteria, as a fashion line should have something visually stunning to show (similar to a Presage line). At least get the rotor painted in either black or blue. If that is difficult, perhaps the clear Hardlex could be tinted with a similar colour as the dial. In the case of the SRPC73K1, a shade of blue perhaps.



The watch has been water rated to 100 meters. It also has a magnetic resistance rating of 4,800 A/m (60 gauss).

The 4R36A is the current automatic caliber workhorse of Seiko. Operating at 21,600 BPH or 3 Hertzs, the movement uses 24 jewels with seconds hand stop capability. It can be hand-wound and it has a power reserve of approximately 41 hours with an error rate of +45 seconds and -35 seconds per day. Below is a video of the movement of the seconds hand.



The watch is paired with a hybrid blue nylon and leather strap. The upper surface is nylon with a contrasting white stitching on the perimeter. The bottom surface is leather. A leather strip has also been put over the buckle holes for reinforcement. It comes with two strap guides and the metal buckle is stamped with the brand. The strap is stiffer than either a pure nylon strap or pure leather strap yet comfortable.



Some parts of the watch have been painted with the luminous Lumibrite paint. Below is a photo of the watch after getting a good dose of black light. As you can see from the photo, the watch has more than adequately illumination for nighttime use.




The Wearing Experience

I have a 7.25 inch circumference wrist and the SRPC73K1 fills the wrist to the brim. To those of you that prefer big watches, this is one good option. The thick hybrid nylon & leather strap does add to the bulk of the watch. It is also the part of the watch that snags the most especially at shirt cuffs. Having worn it in an office environment, it is not as smooth to wear compared to other sports watches from Seiko.



In a more relaxed atmosphere, the SRPC73K1is fun to wear. Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.




Conclusion

As a sports timepiece, the SRPC73K1 does have a number of weakness. 

The first is the dial clutter. As a dress watch, the multiple levels on the dial is very intriguing and a good conversation starter. There are so many interesting aspects on the dial to be discovered. However, you don't want too many things going on the dial as it distracts the user from referring to the time quickly while engaged in a physical activity or while in an active environment. 

The second is the 'phony' timing bezel. The SRPC73K1 only has time, day and date functionality. I would have preferred the bezel to move like a diver watch as it will add another two important functions - timing as well as dual timezone reference. To me, this watch feels like a 'replica' with a non-functioning complication.

The third and final issue is the non-decorated movement. For the Criteria range, this should not be acceptable. At least dress up the rotor or even the display case-back to give that premium feel to the watch and justify it having the Criteria badge.  

Nevertheless, after having said all those thing, I still need to relate the watch to the most important variable - price. For the price point, this watch is not bad at all. It has the general shape that I like and it took some cues from more expensive sports watches to make it feel more exciting.

Since no one has yet provide a fitting nickname for this series, I hereby proclaim the moniker "Submersible" for the SRPC73K1 and all its siblings. This is to reflect its similarity to Panerai's Luminor Submersible 1950 series.




The Series

There are five example in the Criteria Automatic series. Only one is a limited edition piece and only one comes standard with bracelet.

The standard run examples are (L-R) with the reference number SRPC69K1, SRPC71K1, SRPC73K1 and SRPC75K1.



The SRPC69K1 has a black PVD plus bracelet. The SRPC71K1 comes with a leather strap while the rest comes with a hybrid canvas and leather strap in various colours. Meanwhile, the SRPC77K1 (bottom) is a limited edition timepiece. At the time of writing, I have not found information about the number of units being produced for this particular reference.






The MSRP in Malaysia are as follows:
  • SRPC69K1: RM1,605.00
  • SRPC71K1: RM1,290.00
  • SRPC73K1: RM1,390.00
  • SRPC75K1: RM1,440.00
  • SRPC77K1: RM1,605.00

Specifications

Case Material - Stainless Steel
Glass - Sapphire Crystal (front); Hardlex (back)
Band Material - Hybrid Nylon & Leather
Clasp - Signed Buckle
Case Diameter - 44.0 mm (43 mm as stated by Seiko)
Lug Size - 22.0mm
Lug to Lug -  51.5 mm
Height  -  13.5 mm
Movement - Seiko Automatic Caliber 4R36A
Complications - Day & Date
Water Resistant - 100 Meters



Photo Gallery




READ MORE - Seiko Criteria Automatic SRPC73K1 "Submersible" (similar to SRPC69K1, SRPC71K1, SRPC75K1 & SRPC77K1) - Stylish yet basic, A Review (with Videos)