Showing posts with label Recraft. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Recraft. Show all posts

Tuesday

Seiko Retro Classic Automatic Watch SNKM97K1 - Reinterpretation of an iconic design. Some shortcomings but made up in terms of cost and style, A Review

Recently, Seiko started to reproduce some of its vintage designs from its 1960s automatic collection for the current market. Powering the watches is the iconic 7S series automatic movements.

One particular model that was chosen for the reproduction (with some modern adjustments) has been given the name the Seiko Retro Classic Automatic Watch SNKM97K1 which has the retro-looking cushion shaped casing and a brilliant green dial. When I laid my eyes on it, I quickly fell in love.

Sourcing from my supplier from Kuching, http://citytime.my I was able to get one for just RM540. Retail price for this unit is RM675. After making the necessary payment and paperwork, the package was delivered on my desk well within 24 hours.




As usual, the packaging is not pretty but done to provide the best protection during the delivery process.


When I finally got the packaging off, I found the white box with the Seiko logo in silver staring at me. The instruction manual was also found in between the packaging.


The main watch box is generally a white square box with small angled corners to make it into an eight-sided box. The Seiko brand is printed in silver at the center of the box. The box opens up from the middle and hinged at the back.


What greets you when you open the box is a watch with brilliant emerald green dial resting on a large white pillow. The watch also comes with two tags. One listing the official price in Malaysia and the other provides the reference for the watch, the caliber of the movement and the water rating.


It is inside this box where the guarantee card is kept. Seiko provides a global guarantee on its watches for just one year.


Generally at this point, I will start doing the resizing for the bracelet to fit my wrist. I observed that Seiko uses a pin system for the bracelet.


However, instead of the typical pin-and-collar system that I am used too, this time Seiko uses just a pin system. Instead of a collar for the pin, one end of the pin has been flared. This can be seen in the photo below (note the end of the pin on the right has been split and spread to be slightly wider than the rest of the pin). This has the effect of creating the necessary friction to lock the pin in place once placed inside the pin holes.

A simple idea that reduces manufacturing costs and minimizes the stress of manipulating/misplacing the fine collar in the older system. Not sure whether this was done previously in the original model or just a new design. I totally approve. It makes the resizing a less stressful affair with this simplified method.


The watch, including the bracelet, is made out of stainless steel. It has a cushion shaped casing with a crown located at 3 o'clock. It has a diameter of 45 mm (excluding crown) and a lug width of 20 24 mm. It comes with an emerald green dial with a date and day complication window at the 3 o'clock position. The casing and bracelet have polish finishing. Only the central links on the bracelet being polished to a mirror finish.

The crystal protecting the dial is the proprietary Hardlex crystal by Seiko. The watch has been water rated to 5 ATM or 50 meters.


The dial has a sun-burst emerald green colour to it. It has a low gradient chapter ring which has three scales. The outer most is black in colour with markers at every 1-minute intervals and Arabic numerals at every 5-minute intervals. Next is a second ring of solid green scale with markers at every 1-minute intervals. The main scale is the innermost part of the dial with markers at every 5-minute intervals.

The hours and minutes hands are copper coloured (I believe the material is steel) with a skeletal first part  while the second part has a dark green colour strip. Meanwhile, the seconds hand is coloured completely in orange.

This watch does not have the extensive covering of the proprietary Lumibrite paint on the dial like most Seikos. The only part that has the luminous paint is the borders of the four major markers on the North, South, East and West direction of the dial. The hands are completed devoid of any luminous paint.

Of all the Seikos I have ever owned (even second hand pieces), this model is by far has the weakest low-light capability. Although this model is supposed to be a modern reproduction of a 1960s style watch, Seiko should at least consider incorporating modern luminescence design into the overall package. Since this is not strictly a reproduction project but a re-interpretation of an old classic design, adding 21st century functionality should not be a problem.

Since the date and day window doubles as the marker for 3 o'clock and has the Lumibrite paint around its borders, during low level lighting, it acts as a good reference anchor. Unfortunately, this does not provide any advantage when you cannot even see the hours and minutes hands due to the lack of Lumibrite paint on them.


The links on the bracelet is solid. You can also see the display case-back.

Unfortunately, having solid links is still not enough. The built should also be of a higher engineering tolerance. In this case, the linkages between the links are way too loose. It shakes a lot and makes sounds when it does.


As you can see from the photo, Seiko decided not to use their time-tested 3-point safety clasp for this watch. Instead, a simpler push-button clasp is incorporated. As such, micro-adjustment on this watch is limited to just two positions.


The piece that joins the two halves of the bracelet is made out of stamped steel plate that looks cheap. It does look out of place relative to the choice of solid links.


Seiko decided to put in the 7S26C movement into this watch. This is the old workhorse of Seiko that uses 21 jewels and operate at 21,600 b.p.h. It is an automatic and unregulated movement that does not have winding and seconds hand stop (hacking) functionality. Interestingly, this movement is made here in Malaysia.

I am surprised that Seiko did not use the 4R series movement for this model. I would expect at least a winding option would have been a good choice for this model. The only reason I could think why this strategy was chosen is because of surplus stock which needed to be pushed out.


The photo at the bottom shows the quality of polishing that is found on the centre links. When resizing, you need to be careful not to scratch this.


The watch sits nicely on the wrist. The large cushion case makes it look more natural on the wrist compared to large round shaped watches.


This watch is designed as a dress watch hence it fits well with formal wear. It also has that ruggedness feel to it.


The simpler clasp has the brand logo stamped prominently in the centre. Looks pretty good indeed.


This watch has a universal appeal. For formal wear, it can compete with the best. For leisure wear, it also can hold its own. Although it may not expected to be able to suffer the kind of knocks a sports watch could endure, it has a wrist presence that oozes sophistication and coolness.



As highlighted earlier, the rattling of the bracelet, the questionable choice of movement and the poor illumination for the dial are areas for possible improvement. Some may argue these issues are acceptable to justify the low price point for this watch. However, I disagree. As a brand, even if the product has been targeted for the lower end market, it does not give a justification to relax on quality. With the market size that is the Seiko Group, the company has the resources to do the necessary R&D to experiment on the best process for the least amount of time, effort and cost.

I truly appreciate Seiko for bringing back iconic designs of old. At least it shows Seiko is listening to its loyal fans. My personal request would be a reissue of the automatic chronograph bullhead!

Overall, I am very satisfied with this watch despite some shortcomings.

READ MORE - Seiko Retro Classic Automatic Watch SNKM97K1 - Reinterpretation of an iconic design. Some shortcomings but made up in terms of cost and style, A Review

Seiko Retro Classic Automatic Watch SNKN45K1 - Visually Pleasing, A Review

Last year I got myself a Seiko SNKM97K1under the Company's retro classic reproduction series. The SNKM97K1 has the vintage cushion case which I like. After that launch, Seiko introduced another reproduction, the SNKN45K1. This particular watch has the 'turtle' case with hidden lugs. I also like this design.

I got the opportunity to get one. Although I would assume that I could have gotten it cheaper if I have gone via the net, with the recent introduction of GST in Malaysia, I am not sure how Customs will treat the package and assess the value. To be safe, I decided to go to a normal brick-and-mortar shop. The investment was RM665 (SRP RM888 GST included). I though this was higher than the internet price but after actually going through the various internet merchants, the actual amount I paid was RM5 cheaper than the best offered (inclusive of courier fees). Very surprising to note.

The watch is a black ion plated stainless steel case and perforated leather calfskin strap with red underlay. A sizable watch with 44 mm diameter face (excluding crown) and 12.8 mm thick. It has a day and date window located at the 3 o'clock position. The dial is protected by Seiko's proprietary Hardlex artificial crystal. The crystal is slightly domed. The display case-back also uses the Hardlex crystal.





The dial in black and devoid of any notation apart from "SEIKO" at 12 o'clock, "AUTOMATIC" at 6 o'clock and some micro words indicating manufacturing reference at the bottom of the dial. The chapter ring and part of the hour markers are painted silver. Seiko's proprietary LumiBrite luminous paint is painted on square tabs at the upper end of the digital 'U'-shaped markers. You can see that the dial is made from a number of levels (at the edge) that create a subtle 3D effect. Interestingly, both the hour and minute hands are also black ion plated with a strip of LumiBrite paint on them. This gives a nice 'floating' effect at certain angles. The second hand is painted red with only its square tail painted with LumiBrite.

I truly appreciate the conscientiousness of the Seiko designer(s) of this watch for taking the effort of not replacing the hour marker at 3 o'clock with the date and day window. By keeping the 3 o'clock hour marker, the dial becomes symmetrical especially in low light. Also, the use of just square and rectangle shapes for the markers and luminous parts (even on the hands) makes the dial look very consistent.

The lugs are hidden. This type of design makes it very suitable for straps instead of bracelets. You would not be able to see gaps between the strap and the casing. Moreover, this makes it look bigger. The lugs are 22 mm wide which helps balance the already sizable watch.

The thick leather calfskin strap is comfortable to wear. Coupled with the Seiko signed buckle, the watch looks balanced on the wrist.

The crown is a push-in system with 3 positions. Position 1 is with the crown flat on the casing; position 2 is with the crown pulled out by one-click which allows adjustments to the day and date functions; position 3 is with the crown pulled out by two-clicks which allows adjustments of the minute and hour hands. Due to the lack of a screw-down crown, the watch has a depth rating of 5 ATM or 50 meters (165 feet).


The movement used in this watch is one of Seiko's old workhorse, the 7S26 caliber. The best feature in this caliber is the Magic Lever winding system. This winding system involved only four moving parts: the rotor, the Magic Lever, the pawl wheel and one other wheel. This simplicity of design adds to its robustness while maintaining a high level of functionality. Along with the lack of manual winding (and stop second or hacking function), it makes the 7S26 one of the simplest automatics around. This movement uses 21 rubies and operate at the 21,600 beats per hour range. Power reserve is approximately 40 hours.

The thick leather calfskin strap wraps itself softly around one's wrist. Very spongy and comfortable. A real joy to wear. The black strap with red underlay seen through small holes is visually pleasing and gives it a sporting look.

My only wish is that Seiko consider using the 4R series movement for this model instead.


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READ MORE - Seiko Retro Classic Automatic Watch SNKN45K1 - Visually Pleasing, A Review

Sunday

Seiko Recraft Series Automatic Green Watch SNKP27 (Similar to SNKP23, SNKP25) - Welcome Home Beautiful, A Review (plus Video)

An interesting series coming out of Seiko's factories is the "Recraft" line. These are modern watches with vintage design cues at an affordable price point. Akin to a Seiko 5 series but not necessarily so. I believe Seiko found that the current level of quality required of a Seiko 5 with the 4R winding and hacking movement will require them to price it to a level that would not make Seiko 5s the 'cheap value-for-money' watches it used to be.

To solve the affordability issue, Seiko created the 'Recraft' line that firmly puts the brand in the hands of the masses. I have collected a number of watches under this more affordable line and they are truly value-for-money works of art.

The latest into the collection is the SNKP27. This is a square shaped watch which is seldom seen in the realm of Seiko. It has a MSRP of USD275. Made out of stainless steel, it is 40 mm horizontally and 46 mm vertically. It also has a thickness of 12 mm thick. Lug width is 22 mm. The watch is paired with a leather strap with a signed buckle.

Powered by Seiko legendary 7S26 caliber workhorse, it creates a package that is hard to beat when it comes to capabilities at such a low price point.


The Series

The SNKP27 (right) is part of a trio of rectangle type watches launched recently by Seiko. The other members of the trio is the SNKP23 (left) and SNKP25 (middle).



Unfortunately, Seiko has decided not to import this series to Malaysia (at the time this review was written). I had to get it halfway around the world via Amazon.

A few years ago, if given the option, I would prefer to get the SNKP23 as it comes with the standard bracelet. However, my interest has changed and strap watches looks more dashing to me. Moreover, the SNKP27 comes in my favorite color, green.

This is a handsome watch. The rectangle shape of the watch casing has that vintage look that is seldom found in modern watch designs. Although the sharp angles between the side wall and the bezel as well as the side wall and the bottom surface are magnets for dents, it looks cool nonetheless.

The Dial

The dial is designed to have two distinct levels. The lower level is circular while the upper level follows the rectangular shape of the watch casing. Both levels are predominantly in sunburst dark green.



There are only three lines of text on the dial, all located on the lower level. The brand “SEIKO” is gold plated whereas the other two are in white. There are also hour markers in the form of white dots on this level. Meanwhile, the day and date aperture is heavily framed and is gold plated. The date and day wheels are based on a white background. The day function has two language options; English or Spanish.

The upper level has thin black ring at the inner edge and minute markers in the shape of white lines are located in this area. Beyond this area, the minute markers transitioned to bright green lines and extend right to the other edge of the dial. Gold plated rectangle plates are use as hour markers on this level. Apart for the 3 o’clock (due to the day and date aperture) and 12 o’clock (as a starting reference) hour markers, all the rest are similar in design. Do note the intermittent border wall in very dark green at the outer edge of the dial.

The minutes and hours hands are rectangle and gold plated. Their center sections are painted with Seiko luminous paint; LumiBrite. Meanwhile the seconds hands is pin-like and also gold plated.

The Casing

As highlighted earlier, this rectangle shaped watch is made out of stainless steel with flat surfaces and angled corners. A mixture of polished and brushed surfaces gives a nice texture combination that reinforces its ‘vintage’ design. With dimensions of 40 mm horizontal, 46 mm vertical and 12 mm tall, this ‘Recraft’ is smaller than other watches under this vintage-style series.



The short hooded lugs with width of 22 mm help reduce the overall size even further. The watch sits firmly on my wrist without any ‘overhang’ of the lugs. Those with thinner wrist will find this design very accommodating.



The dial is protected by Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex crystal. It has a flat surface with beveled edges and the surface extends about 0.5 mm above the bezel. This gives another interesting visual cue but also exposes the crystal to potential side impact.

The crown is simple tubular shaped crown approximately 6 mm wide located at the 3 o’clock position. It has fine groves on the barrel surface while the top has a polished surface. Using a push-in system, it has three positions, first is lock, second adjusts the day and date, and third adjusts the time.



The watch comes with a screw-down display case-back also made out of Hardlex crystal. On it you will find the serial number of the watch as well additional information such as the make as well as the water resistant limit. This watch is rated for 5 ATM or 50 meters. I am proud to note that the watch movement is made in Malaysia. The same is also stamped on the rotor of the movement.

The Movement

The movement is the classic 7S26C workhorse by Seiko. It has 21 jewels with a power reserve of approximately 40+ hours. It is a non-winding and non-hacking movement with day and date complications. Although not as accurate as more modern designs, it is dependable and can take a lot of abuse. More importantly, it is cheap to make and that helps keep prices low. I am rather proud to note that the movement is made in Malaysia!

The Strap

The strap attached to the watch is stressed double-layered brown calf leather with border stitching. It comes with a signed buckle. It tapers from 22 mm at the lugs to 19 mm at the buckle. Unlike typical leather straps, the tail is squared off instead of shaped to a pointed tip.



End-to-end, the strap extends to 24 cm. It is capable of securing the watch to a wrist with a maximum circumference of 21 cm or 8.3 inches.

I find the strap comfortable and the thickness gives the impression of able to last for a long time.

The Reveal

The box is new design. This is the first time I’ve seen it. It comes in two sections.



The first section is an outer sleeve made out of white cardboard with a window cutout at the top. The second section is the main watch-box made out of hard cardboard. The top piece is in white with the brand printed in silver. This is the part that one can view via the cutout in the outer sleeve. The bottom part of the box is in black and it sticks out at the bottom as the top part of the box does not go all the way down.



Inside the box is a very wide pillow with the logo printed at the corner and where the watch sits. Beneath it is the manual with the typical guarantee card. In addition, there is another piece of document which you can fill and upload digitally for the guarantee coverage. I believe this is an option from SEIKO USA. Otherwise, you will have to use the typical guarantee card.

The Wearing Experience

The watch sits firmly on the wrist. The short hooded lugs make this watch very wearable even for those with thinner wrists. The double layered brown leather strap pairs nicely with the casing.

Visually, the dual tiered dial surface gives the perception of depth which ties in with long sloping sides of the casing. My only comment is that instead of a circular second tier, it would be more appropriate for it to be shaped similar to the watch casing i.e. rectangular as well.

Below are some photos as well as a video of the watch on my wrist.






Conclusion

The SNKP27 is a beautiful watch. Hopefully, someone in Seiko does see the light and allow this series to be imported into Malaysia.

On another note, when I got the watch from Amazon, I tried starting the watch but the seconds hand didn’t budge. I tried all the suggested solutions in the manual. I was so disappointed that I may have to send it back to Amazon. I even completed the ‘return parcel’ request with Amazon. I tried one final trick. I turned the hours hand two full cycles and surprisingly, the watch started to work! I suspect that the springs did not have a shred of kinetic energy in them (since it was new) and only after giving it the initial boost that it started to work, phew!




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READ MORE - Seiko Recraft Series Automatic Green Watch SNKP27 (Similar to SNKP23, SNKP25) - Welcome Home Beautiful, A Review (plus Video)