MWF-Gruppo Gamma LE Watch - A Well Made Hommage To A Classic, A Review

The Malaysia Watch Forum or MWF has completed the second watch project. Made by Gruppo Gamma*, a limited run of just 50 watches was delivered to proud owners last Saturday, 11 January 2014, in conjunction to the 5th Anniversary GTG/annual dinner held in the Angus House restaurant in Starhill Gallery, Kuala Lumpur. I was lucky enough to be one of them.

*Gruppo Gamma is a boutique watchmaker based in Singapore. They a dedicated to modernizing the design of tool watches issued to Italian Navy commandos in the middle of the 20th century. 

When I got the watch, I received this very functional watch box or travel pouch. The skull and rose is the logo of Gruppo Gamma (the red hat is only incorporated during the Christmas season).

Apart from the nice watch pouch, you get a guarantee card and the watch. Some basic specifications on the watch is given in the following paragraphs.

The watch case is based on the design of the famous G Series by Panerai which was issued in 1940. Made out of 316L stainless steel, it comes with a screw down solid case back. It is 44 mm diameter wide with a 24 mm lug width. The crown in situated at the 3 o'clock position as is a screw down. The body of the watch case in polished and the lugs uses screws.

The movement is is the well tested Miyota 8215 automatic movement with  hand wind capability. The Miyota 8215 beats at 21,600 beats per pour or 6 beats per second (3 Hz). It has 21 jewels and a 45 hour power reserve. It employs a unidirectional winding rotor. To protect it from shocks, it has its own proprietary shock resistance called Parashock.

The dial is black and sterile from any words or symbols. The dial is sandwich between two. Arabic numbering "3", "6", "9" and 12" are used at the four corners while the rest of the hours uses small line markers. These are cut from the first layer. C3 SuperLuminova paint is then used on the markers and numberings to give the 3D effect.

This watch comes only with 2 hands (hour- & minutes-) and lumed with the same paint as before. When the project was started, MWF members wanted to have a watch that is very minimalist. There should not be any additional function such as a day or date window. Even the second-hand is deemed disruptive to the zen of the watch.

Mineral glass crystal is deemed sufficient for this project. Personally, I would like to see more 'class' for the watch and sapphire crystal would have been a better choice.

The strap that comes standard is genuine leather. Dual layered, with white stitching at the corners which complements the black leather. The strap ends with a big signed buckle.

Water resistant rating is 10 ATM.

The case back has the maker and the MWF event etched on it. As highlighted earlier, this watch is 1 of only 50 watches that was specifically ordered for the event and all taken up.

The guarantee card.

The date for which this watch was delivered.

This particular shot shows how thick the leather strap is.

Loads of empty spaces for you to etch any messages or logos.

The watch on my wrist. Very imposing and refined.

The thick white thread used is a nice contrast.

The huge buckle with the manufacturer brand etched on it.

The smooth shape of the watch casing makes it less susceptible to snagging on cloths.

First day out with the watch. It is comfortable to wear and the straps held on to your arm like a second skin.

I wore it to office a few days ago and it was a natural with formal clothing. The sandwich dial was striking especially in the sunlight. The size itself generates a lot of interest. However, the shape is so similar to a PAM that practically everyone that enquired asked whether it was a Panerai. This is the only problem wearing a hommage.

READ MORE - MWF-Gruppo Gamma LE Watch - A Well Made Hommage To A Classic, A Review

Seiko Retro Classic Automatic Watch SNKM97K1 - Reinterpretation of an iconic design. Some shortcomings but made up in terms of cost and style, A Review

Recently, Seiko started to reproduce some of its vintage designs from its 1960s automatic collection for the current market. Powering the watches is the iconic 7S series automatic movements.

One particular model that was chosen for the reproduction (with some modern adjustments) has been given the name the Seiko Retro Classic Automatic Watch SNKM97K1 which has the retro-looking cushion shaped casing and a brilliant green dial. When I laid my eyes on it, I quickly fell in love.

Sourcing from my supplier from Kuching, http://citytime.my I was able to get one for just RM540. Retail price for this unit is RM675. After making the necessary payment and paperwork, the package was delivered on my desk well within 24 hours.

As usual, the packaging is not pretty but done to provide the best protection during the delivery process.

When I finally got the packaging off, I found the white box with the Seiko logo in silver staring at me. The instruction manual was also found in between the packaging.

The main watch box is generally a white square box with small angled corners to make it into an eight-sided box. The Seiko brand is printed in silver at the center of the box. The box opens up from the middle and hinged at the back.

What greets you when you open the box is a watch with brilliant emerald green dial resting on a large white pillow. The watch also comes with two tags. One listing the official price in Malaysia and the other provides the reference for the watch, the caliber of the movement and the water rating.

It is inside this box where the guarantee card is kept. Seiko provides a global guarantee on its watches for just one year.

Generally at this point, I will start doing the resizing for the bracelet to fit my wrist. I observed that Seiko uses a pin system for the bracelet.

However, instead of the typical pin-and-collar system that I am used too, this time Seiko uses just a pin system. Instead of a collar for the pin, one end of the pin has been flared. This can be seen in the photo below (note the end of the pin on the right has been split and spread to be slightly wider than the rest of the pin). This has the effect of creating the necessary friction to lock the pin in place once placed inside the pin holes.

A simple idea that reduces manufacturing costs and minimizes the stress of manipulating/misplacing the fine collar in the older system. Not sure whether this was done previously in the original model or just a new design. I totally approve. It makes the resizing a less stressful affair with this simplified method.

The watch, including the bracelet, is made out of stainless steel. It has a cushion shaped casing with a crown located at 3 o'clock. It has a diameter of 45 mm (excluding crown) and a lug width of 20 24 mm. It comes with an emerald green dial with a date and day complication window at the 3 o'clock position. The casing and bracelet have polish finishing. Only the central links on the bracelet being polished to a mirror finish.

The crystal protecting the dial is the proprietary Hardlex crystal by Seiko. The watch has been water rated to 5 ATM or 50 meters.

The dial has a sun-burst emerald green colour to it. It has a low gradient chapter ring which has three scales. The outer most is black in colour with markers at every 1-minute intervals and Arabic numerals at every 5-minute intervals. Next is a second ring of solid green scale with markers at every 1-minute intervals. The main scale is the innermost part of the dial with markers at every 5-minute intervals.

The hours and minutes hands are copper coloured (I believe the material is steel) with a skeletal first part  while the second part has a dark green colour strip. Meanwhile, the seconds hand is coloured completely in orange.

This watch does not have the extensive covering of the proprietary Lumibrite paint on the dial like most Seikos. The only part that has the luminous paint is the borders of the four major markers on the North, South, East and West direction of the dial. The hands are completed devoid of any luminous paint.

Of all the Seikos I have ever owned (even second hand pieces), this model is by far has the weakest low-light capability. Although this model is supposed to be a modern reproduction of a 1960s style watch, Seiko should at least consider incorporating modern luminescence design into the overall package. Since this is not strictly a reproduction project but a re-interpretation of an old classic design, adding 21st century functionality should not be a problem.

Since the date and day window doubles as the marker for 3 o'clock and has the Lumibrite paint around its borders, during low level lighting, it acts as a good reference anchor. Unfortunately, this does not provide any advantage when you cannot even see the hours and minutes hands due to the lack of Lumibrite paint on them.

The links on the bracelet is solid. You can also see the display case-back.

Unfortunately, having solid links is still not enough. The built should also be of a higher engineering tolerance. In this case, the linkages between the links are way too loose. It shakes a lot and makes sounds when it does.

As you can see from the photo, Seiko decided not to use their time-tested 3-point safety clasp for this watch. Instead, a simpler push-button clasp is incorporated. As such, micro-adjustment on this watch is limited to just two positions.

The piece that joins the two halves of the bracelet is made out of stamped steel plate that looks cheap. It does look out of place relative to the choice of solid links.

Seiko decided to put in the 7S26C movement into this watch. This is the old workhorse of Seiko that uses 21 jewels and operate at 21,600 b.p.h. It is an automatic and unregulated movement that does not have winding and seconds hand stop (hacking) functionality. Interestingly, this movement is made here in Malaysia.

I am surprised that Seiko did not use the 4R series movement for this model. I would expect at least a winding option would have been a good choice for this model. The only reason I could think why this strategy was chosen is because of surplus stock which needed to be pushed out.

The photo at the bottom shows the quality of polishing that is found on the centre links. When resizing, you need to be careful not to scratch this.

The watch sits nicely on the wrist. The large cushion case makes it look more natural on the wrist compared to large round shaped watches.

This watch is designed as a dress watch hence it fits well with formal wear. It also has that ruggedness feel to it.

The simpler clasp has the brand logo stamped prominently in the centre. Looks pretty good indeed.

This watch has a universal appeal. For formal wear, it can compete with the best. For leisure wear, it also can hold its own. Although it may not expected to be able to suffer the kind of knocks a sports watch could endure, it has a wrist presence that oozes sophistication and coolness.

As highlighted earlier, the rattling of the bracelet, the questionable choice of movement and the poor illumination for the dial are areas for possible improvement. Some may argue these issues are acceptable to justify the low price point for this watch. However, I disagree. As a brand, even if the product has been targeted for the lower end market, it does not give a justification to relax on quality. With the market size that is the Seiko Group, the company has the resources to do the necessary R&D to experiment on the best process for the least amount of time, effort and cost.

I truly appreciate Seiko for bringing back iconic designs of old. At least it shows Seiko is listening to its loyal fans. My personal request would be a reissue of the automatic chronograph bullhead!

Overall, I am very satisfied with this watch despite some shortcomings.

READ MORE - Seiko Retro Classic Automatic Watch SNKM97K1 - Reinterpretation of an iconic design. Some shortcomings but made up in terms of cost and style, A Review