Showing posts with label 30M. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 30M. Show all posts

Friday

Parnis 60mm Brown Leather Crown Jumbo Pilot Auto SS Watch Reference PI58 – Cheap homage to the FL23883 standard, A Review (plus Video)


A few months ago in June 2016, I ordered two pilot watches from Parnis (www.parniswatch.net). Unfortunately, one of them, the Jumbo Pilot was not working (please refer to this link on the review of the other Parnis pilot watch; Parnis Black Dial Big Pilot Power Reserve Chronometer). After sending the watch back to Parnis, I received a new example which was working (more about the problems later).

This particular model conforms to the original specification of pilot watches under the German 'B-Uhr' Watch (or Observation watch) standard FL23883 of the WW2 era which calls for a watch that is 55 mm wide (excluding crown; with crown it would go to 60 mm) with a large crown. Under the A-dial format, it should also have a black dial with white Arabic numerals (all numerical markers filled with luminous material) and flame-blued sword hands also covered in luminous material. The designs also featured a unique triangle mark at the 12 o’clock position designed for ease of orientation in any condition. The movement must be capable of stopping the central seconds hand by pulling the crown. The watch should also come with a very long double-riveted leather strap.



This particular example fulfills all the requirements under the FL23883 standard even to the sterile dial. In my view, this is the best representation or homage of a German pilot watch currently available in the market.



The Parnis Jumbo Pilot watch is made out of stainless steel. Its width, inclusive of the large crown, is 60 mm wide. The lug width is 24 mm while its lug-to-lug width is approximately 70 mm long. The dial is protected by a large piece domed mineral glass. Paired with a tan leather band with deployant clasp, wearing this watch does take some use to.

The large crown is a screw-down crown. The edge of the crown is fluted with a sunken flat surface in the center.


The case-back uses a snap-shut system and devoid of any etchings whatsoever. Unfortunately, because of this snap-shut system, the watch has a water rating of just 3 ATM or 30 meters.

The engine powering this watch is the automatic and self-winding Seagull movement. However, I don’t know the exact caliber used for this watch.

Despite the watch having most if not all the dimensions as per the original FL23883 standard, there are a number of missing design factors that were include in the standard but not implemented by Parnis. The first is the missing “FL23883” stamping that should have been made on the side wall of the watch. The second is the missing list of information about the watch such as movement brand, serial number etc in table form. The third and final difference is the use of a deployant clasp instead of a simple buckle for the strap.


The Wearing Experience

This watch is huge. Honestly, I cannot see myself wearing this watch in public. It just sits like a plate on my wrist. This is definitely a difficult watch to wear if you’re wearing a shirt with long sleeves.

However, this watch would look balance if worn over your shirt sleeve instead of on the wrist directly. This watch is also weighty.

The crown in rather loose when extended. The manufacturing tolerances is not that tight.

The Reveal

Everything about Parnis is about keeping costs down. The price quoted only gets you the watch and nothing else, not even instructions. If you want it to come in a watch box you will have to pay. I don’t think there’s even a guarantee attached to the watch.

In my case, the watch came wrapped in just bubble plastic and dumped inside an envelope.


Above is a picture of the watch next to my Seiko Prospex Kinetic GMT Reference SUN019P1 which has a width size of 47.5 mm.

Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.


Conclusion

The watch is cheap. Just USD145 inclusive of postage. From that perspective, one should not expect a lot. In my case, the original model which Parnis sent was a dud and I had to send it back (at my cost or approximately RM67). Nevertheless, the replacement works well and I am pleased with the performance. The timekeeping is generally good.

However, what is good on paper does not generally gel in practicality. Wearing a 60 mm wide watch on a wrist is too much to ask. This watch would look more at place being worn over a flight jacket.

All is not lost. This example is well suited to be converted to a pocket watch. Finding a good strap-maker to design a leather holder to fit into the lugs would just be the ticket to getting some practical use of this watch.


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READ MORE - Parnis 60mm Brown Leather Crown Jumbo Pilot Auto SS Watch Reference PI58 – Cheap homage to the FL23883 standard, A Review (plus Video)

Thursday

Seiko 5 Automatic Men Watch SNKK87 - The Cheapest of the Seiko White Knights, A Review (plus Video)


By now you would have guessed that I love white dialed watches. One of my themes for my watch collection is the Seiko White Knights series – these are Seiko watches with white dial (or part thereof), round casing, automatic or hybrid (powered by rotor), three hands, crown at 3 o’clock and paired with a bracelet. With this SNKK87, I will have five under this grouping.

This time around I decided to search via eBay. I found a seller out of Singapore and I promptly made the necessary payment. Payment was made on 9 April 2018 for RM346.67. The package arrived via normal Airmail on 23 April 2018.
 
The SNKK87 model came out in 2013. It has a case diameter of 38.0 mm without the crown and 40.5 mm with the crown. Thickness is 10.5 mm. Lug width is 20.0 mm and the lug-to-lug length is 43.0 mm. The watch is made out of 316L stainless steel with polished and brushed surfaces. It comes with a display case-back. Both the dial window and the case-back window are made out of Hardlex crystal. Paired with a stainless steel bracelet, the whole watch weighs in at slightly less than 100 grams.


This model has a simple yet effective dial design. The scale has a combination of line markers for the minutes and rectangle polished plate for the hours. At the inner-end of the hour markers, a small dot of luminous paint, LumiBrite is added for night referencing. The 3 o’clock marker is replaced with a date and day aperture in a polished framed. The date and day wheels have a white background to commensurate with the white dial. For this particular model, the date wheel has a choice of English or Spanish. Meanwhile, the hands and hour markers are also coated in LumiBrite for low light use.


On the dial itself, there are 5 lines of texts and logo. The upper quadrant has the brand name and the series logo. The rest are located in the lower quadrant.

Overall, the dial is uncluttered and easy to read.

The bracelet has a 20.0 mm width at the lugs and tapers down to 18.0 mm at the clasp. The clasp is a simple fold over push button release design with the brand and series logo stamped on it. The links uses the spring clip system and 3 micro adjustment points are provided in the clasp itself. Do note that the parts in the bracelets such as the links and all are made from stamped sheet metal and folded, not machined (i.e. solid). As such, it does rattle and feels cheap. Replacing the standard bracelet with a leather or canvas strap would be preferable and makes it more refine.



Resizing is simple yet delicate as you need to use something sharp and any slip could cause scratching. Above you can see how metal sheets are bend to make the various link components for the bracelet. Looks cheap, feels cheap but once assembled and on a wrist, it belies its true nature.


The display case back allows one to see the workings of the Seiko’s iconic automatic workhorse, the Caliber 7S26. This movement uses 21 jewels and beats at 21,600 BPH or 3 Hertz and is undecorated. The movement has a 43 hour power reserve and doesn’t feature seconds hand stop mechanism (or hacking) nor manual winding option.

The casing design and manufacturing tolerances only allow a 3 ATM or 30 meters of water resistance.

The Series

There are eight members under this particular sub-series. The SNKK87, SNKK89, SNKK91, SNKK93, SNKK94, SNKK96, SNKK98 and SNKL02. The differences lie in the dial, strap and case colours.

SNKK87
SNKK89
SNKK91
SNKK93


SNKK94
SNKK96
SNKK98
SNKL02




The Wearing Experience

This is a light watch and the sub-40.0 mm size allows it to be used by practically anyone, young or old, man or woman. The price point allows it to be classified as a ‘beater watch’ since you will not lose sleep over it if it suffered superficial damage (or even catastrophic) in your day-to-day wearing.

Despite that, this watch has the lines that make it passable as an ‘elegant’ dress watch as well. Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.



Seiko’s White Knights
 
Seiko recognizes the different market strata in terms of affordability. The brand makes it a point to service all strata with models that are generally similar. Creating a model (albeit different quality, material etc) with the same core DNA at many price levels makes it inclusive and delights a large swathe of the fan base.

The “Seiko White Knights” is a particular theme that I chose due to my love for white dialed watches. There is nothing unique about them. You can, if you wanted to, go for “Seiko Black Knights”, watches with black dial instead. Based on my own criteria (highlighted earlier in the first paragraph of this review), I have identified some of the watches that fit the criteria in a number of series. Although there could be more in other series, in this case, Seiko has at least one in the Kinetic series, the Seiko 5 series, the Spirit series, the Presage series and the Grand Seiko series. I was lucky enough to be able to collect them. These watches (apart from the SNKK87) are tabulated below. 


http://easternwatch.blogspot.my/2018/03/seiko-spirit-automatic-sarb035-jdm.html
Seiko Spirit Automatic SARB035

http://easternwatch.blogspot.my/2016/08/seikos-grand-seiko-sbga011-spring-drive.html
Grand Seiko SBGA011 Spring Drive

Since there are other models in other series under Seiko that I have yet to identify, the acquisition of the SNKK87 will not be the last for this collection theme.


Photo Gallery



READ MORE - Seiko 5 Automatic Men Watch SNKK87 - The Cheapest of the Seiko White Knights, A Review (plus Video)